{"id":4782,"date":"2023-07-21T08:11:42","date_gmt":"2023-07-21T08:11:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/akamberg.nl\/?page_id=4782"},"modified":"2023-08-16T10:56:27","modified_gmt":"2023-08-16T10:56:27","slug":"2023-baltische-staten","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/?page_id=4782","title":{"rendered":"2023 &#8211; Litouwen, Estland en Letland"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Ik sta in Narva, in het noord oosten van Estland. Aan de overkant van de rivier de Narva ligt Rusland. Het land van Putin. Het land van de bedreigingen en bedrog. De Narva is maar een meter of 10 breed op dit stuk, maar toch is aan die andere kant een hele andere wereld. Een rus zit achter het hek te schreeuwen en te gebaren dat ik niet zolang daar moet blijven staan. Man waar maak je je druk om. Je staat achter een hek in een ander land. Wat wou je doen daar vandaan\u2026.. Ik ben hier niet voor Rusland naartoe gekomen, maar Rusland is wel een land dat een enorme impact heeft op de omgeving. In het zuiden van Litouwen en aan het oosten van Letland, waar de landen grenzen aan Rusland, wordt het straatbeeld naast de eigen vlag gedomineerd door de geel-blauwe vlag van Oekra\u00efne en vlaggen van de NAVO. Maar de spanning van het gebied maak je door de onwetendheid. Geen verhoogde militaire aanwezigheid, geen tanks of Wagner troepen maar toeristen die komen kijken naar het fort aan de Estlandse kant, en in Ivangorod aan de andere kant van de brug de<a href=\"https:\/\/nl.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vlag_van_Rusland\" title=\" wit-blauw-rode vlag\"> wit-blauw-rode vlag<\/a> wapperend in de wint op het andere fort.     <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Waarom in hemelsnaam naar deze landen, eigenlijk een heel simpel antwoord. Op de basisschool vond ik de vorm van de drie landen op Nederland lijken. met de golf van Riga als het IJsselmeer, en het rijtje Baltische staten kon ik opdreunen als onderdeel van Aardrijkskunde. Collega&#8217;s zijn aan het vertellen wat ze gaan doen met de vakantie, en ik heb zelf nog geen bestemming dus ik roep: Ik heb net bedacht wat ik ga doen, ik ga naar Riga. Die avond nog kijken wat en hoe ik dat gaat doen. Vliegen en auto of motor huren, maar waarom al dat moeilijke gedoe. Ik heb een motor en die is hiervoor, en blijkbaar vaart er een <a href=\"https:\/\/www.stenaline.nl\/routes\/travemunde-liepaja\" title=\"ferry van L\u00fcbeck-Travem\u00fcnde, bij Hamburg, naar Liep\u0101ja in Letland\">ferry van L\u00fcbeck-Travem\u00fcnde, bij Hamburg, naar Liep\u0101ja in Letland<\/a>. De volgende dag boek ik de boot en twee weken later gaat de reis bijna onvoorbereid beginnen.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"318\" src=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_3-1024x318.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5042\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_3-1024x318.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_3-300x93.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_3-768x238.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_3-1536x477.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_3-2048x635.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"576\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_6-576x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5043\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_6-576x1024.jpeg 576w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_6-169x300.jpeg 169w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_6-768x1365.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_6-864x1536.jpeg 864w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_6-1152x2048.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_Phone_6-scaled.jpeg 1440w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"700\" height=\"791\" src=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_baltic-states.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5017\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_baltic-states.jpg 700w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_baltic-states-265x300.jpg 265w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p> De eerste grote wens die ik al jaren heb wordt al op dag twee werkelijkheid. Ik stop in Hamburg met maar 1 doel, een hamburger eten. Ook weer van mijn bucket list af, nu nog naar Graceland en Area 51 en Mali en ik heb alles gedaan wat ik wil doen, nou bijna alles want ik ben ook nog niet in Riga. Doordat ik zo laat ben met boeken zijn er alleen nog stoelen beschikbaar in de stilteruimte om de nacht door te brengen. Gelukkig is de zee kalm en staat er een lekker zonnetje dus de ellendige uren worden gecompenseerd door heel de dag gaar op dek te slapen. Na 22 uur op de ferry komt ik dan aan in Letland. Ik voel me uitgerust en heb wel zin om nog een stukje te rijden. Aan de kust regelmatig een camping, maar het is pas 20:00, dus nog alle tijd om naar Klaipeda te reizen in Litouwen. Met een lege telefoon wordt het zoeken naar een hotel op de ouderwetse manier. Rondrijden tot je een gebouw met Hotel erop zie en dan proberen en vragen aan mensen die wel een werkende telefoon hebben. Alleen nog dure hotels in Klaipeda en de camping zou vol zijn. Ach het is nog niet donker, dan maar verder naar het zuiden. Alleen wordt het wel steeds donkerder. Dat bord, dat zal wel camping betekenen. Ik ga een bospad in, en dwalend door het bos kom ik bij een feest. Verbaast staan ze naar me te kijken. Kamping? Weer terug, en het wordt donkerder en donkerder. In het volgende stadje zou toch wel minstens een hotel zijn. Ik bel aan en een man komt in zijn onderbroek naar buiten. Hotel, en ik krijg in het Litouws een reactie. Hotel, herhaal ik nogmaals met wat meer vraag in mijn stem. Op de raam wordt een tekening gemaakt en 5 minuten later heb ik eindelijk in het donker een hotel gevonden. OK Arjan, jij wil avontuur en niet voorbereiden, dan krijg je dit. Maar het komt ook eigenlijk altijd goed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>De hoofdwegen zijn prachtig geasfalteerd. En bewegwijzering naar een dorpje, en 1 meter na de afslag zijn de wegen niets meer dan aan gewalste aarde wegen met kiezels. Langs de gleuven en gaten in de weg ga ik heel voorzichtig met 40 km\/h de weg vervolgen. Een tegemoetkomende vrachtwagen heeft dit al vaker gedaan. Wat voor mij nieuw en spannend is, is voor hem de dagelijkse weg, waar hij rakelings langs mij rijd met 80 km\/h. Dit zijn wel de leukste wegen, en ze gaan overal naartoe. En al snel zijn het voor mij ook gewone wegen geworden en rij ik net zo hard als op het asfalt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"939\" src=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_Shell-1024x939.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5281\" srcset=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_Shell-1024x939.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_Shell-300x275.jpg 300w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_Shell-768x704.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_Shell-1536x1408.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023_Shell.jpg 1564w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>In een nieuw land zie je heel veel nieuwe dingen en indrukken, maar soms is wat je niet ziet veel interessanter. Het duurt alleen even voordat je er erg in heb. Bij Baltic Oil, Circle, Alexeia en Neste haal ik mijn benzine. En ik hoef me nergens druk te maken of ik de volgende pomp haal, want er zijn er genoeg. Maar geen Shell, BP, Texaco of Esso te bekennen in het land. In Letland en Litouwen zie ik ook nog wel verschillende prijzen bij de pomp, maar in Estland is de prijs overal hetzelfde 1,779 voor een liter Euro 95, of ik op de snelweg rij, in stad of dorp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na een week maak ik ook een foto van een leeg flesje dat op de stoep staat. Het flesje is niet kapot gegooid maar staat ligt aan de kant. Het is na een week het eerste afval dat ik op straat zie. In een supermarkt loop een man voor me en raapt een stukje papier van de grond en ruimt het op. Het zijn ongekende taferelen voor mij. Als ik op internet zoek staan er alleen berichten dat het vuil toeneemt. Denk het ook, daar dat ene flesje is er 100% meer afval op straat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Van Lipaia naar Silute, Siaulaia naar de <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hill_of_Crosses\" title=\"\">Hill of crosses<\/a>. Deze landen bestaan voor het grootste gedeelte uit bossen velden en landerijen. Er is weinig spectaculairs maar wel leuk om er te zijn. Deze heuvel is dan weer zo iets dat weer uniek is. Tienduizenden kruizen, klein en groot, op een heuvel. Het heeft niets met graven te maken, maar alles met verzet tegen de bezetter. Later toen die bezetter ook nog een anti-geloof was het nog toepasselijker. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Alleen reizen is vaak heel lekker, geen overleg, wendbaarder op de motor en doen waar je zin in heb. De avonden ben ik alleen wat minder blij mee. Na het eten probeer ik niet te vervallen in een avondje op de telefoon kijken. Om 20:30 ga ik dan maar naar de <a href=\"https:\/\/www.imdb.com\/title\/tt15398776\/\" title=\"\">film Oppenheimer<\/a> in Siaulaia. In een Mall met bowling en schaatsbaan zit ook een grote bioscoop. Gelukkig worden de films hier ondertiteld, ik moet alleen wennen dat ik niets van die ondertitels snap. Na 3 uur lachen, schateren en veel lol ben ik weer buiten in een andere wereld. De wegen zijn praktisch verlaten. Al het licht is uit en met een lege telefoon moet ik de terugweg vinden naar het hotel. Ik had onthouden dat ik bij de Lidl moest afslaan, maar waar vind ik die Lidl in het donker. Na even rijden ga ik een grote brug over, uhmmm die kan ik me niet van de heenweg herinneren. Weer terug zie ik door de reflectie van het licht van de benzinepomp het Lidl logo staan. Even verderop rode lichten achter me. Ik ga aan de kant om ruimte te maken, maar de lichten waren voor mij bedoeld. Shit, dag 2 in Litouwen, hoe gaat dit, wat is er aan de hand. Rijbewijs en paspoort en eigenlijk niets aan de hand. Die agenten zitten zich waarschijnlijk te vervelen in een verlaten donkere stad. Motoren zie je overdag al bijna nooit, en nu zo&#8217;n motor met gek kenteken, daar willen ze wel even naar kijken. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vilnuis, Tallinn en Riga zijn alle drie prachtige steden. Lekker rondlopen, eten en foto&#8217;s maken. Na een dag heb ik het meestal wel weer gezien en wil weer verder. Lekker motorrijden over de grindwegen, proberen te verdwalen en op plekken te komen die ik niet had bedacht. Rusten en eten in een bos, luisterend naar de wilde dieren maar verder dan een overstekende vos en wat dode dieren aan de kant van de weg kom ik niet.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n<div  id=\"jtg-5031\" class=\"modula modula-gallery modula-creative-gallery\" data-config=\"{&quot;height&quot;:800,&quot;tabletHeight&quot;:800,&quot;mobileHeight&quot;:800,&quot;desktopHeight&quot;:800,&quot;enableTwitter&quot;:false,&quot;enableWhatsapp&quot;:false,&quot;enableFacebook&quot;:false,&quot;enablePinterest&quot;:false,&quot;enableLinkedin&quot;:false,&quot;enableEmail&quot;:false,&quot;randomFactor&quot;:0.5,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;creative-gallery&quot;,&quot;columns&quot;:12,&quot;gutter&quot;:10,&quot;mobileGutter&quot;:10,&quot;tabletGutter&quot;:10,&quot;desktopGutter&quot;:10,&quot;enableResponsive&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;tabletColumns&quot;:&quot;2&quot;,&quot;mobileColumns&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;lazyLoad&quot;:0,&quot;lightboxOpts&quot;:{&quot;animated&quot;:true,&quot;Thumbs&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;modern&quot;,&quot;showOnStart&quot;:false},&quot;Toolbar&quot;:{&quot;display&quot;:{&quot;right&quot;:[&quot;close&quot;]},&quot;enabled&quot;:true},&quot;Carousel&quot;:{&quot;Panzoom&quot;:{&quot;touch&quot;:true},&quot;infinite&quot;:false},&quot;keyboard&quot;:{&quot;Escape&quot;:&quot;close&quot;,&quot;Delete&quot;:&quot;close&quot;,&quot;Backspace&quot;:&quot;close&quot;,&quot;PageUp&quot;:false,&quot;PageDown&quot;:false,&quot;ArrowUp&quot;:false,&quot;ArrowDown&quot;:false,&quot;ArrowRight&quot;:false,&quot;ArrowLeft&quot;:false},&quot;touch&quot;:false,&quot;backdropClick&quot;:false,&quot;l10n&quot;:{&quot;CLOSE&quot;:&quot;Sluiten&quot;,&quot;NEXT&quot;:&quot;Volgende&quot;,&quot;PREV&quot;:&quot;Vorige&quot;,&quot;Error&quot;:&quot;De gevraagde inhoud kan niet worden geladen. 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https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_349-scaled-168x300.jpg 168w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_349-575x1024.jpg 575w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_349-768x1368.jpg 768w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_349-862x1536.jpg 862w, https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_349-1150x2048.jpg 1150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 168px) 100vw, 168px\" \/>\n\t\t<div class=\"figc no-description\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"figc-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t<\/div>\n\n<\/div><div class=\"modula-item effect-pufrobo\" >\n\t<div class=\"modula-item-overlay\"><\/div>\n\n\t<div class=\"modula-item-content\">\n\n\t\t<a data-image-id=\"5225\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" rel=\"jtg-5031\" data-caption=\"\" aria-label=\"Afbeelding openen in lightbox\" class=\"tile-inner 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https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_1140-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/>\n\t\t<div class=\"figc no-description\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"figc-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t<\/div>\n\n<\/div><div class=\"modula-item effect-pufrobo\" >\n\t<div class=\"modula-item-overlay\"><\/div>\n\n\t<div class=\"modula-item-content\">\n\n\t\t<a data-image-id=\"5070\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" rel=\"jtg-5031\" data-caption=\"\" aria-label=\"Afbeelding openen in lightbox\" class=\"tile-inner modula-item-link\"><\/a><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"pic wp-image-5070\"  data-valign=\"middle\" data-halign=\"center\" alt=\"\" data-full=\"https:\/\/akamberg.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230800_Baltics_1146.jpeg\" title=\"20230800_Baltics_1146\" crop=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"95\" 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